Tuesday, December 1, 2015
What a great day to
be in Hawaii! Knowing the December winds are blowing at home and here we are in
the sunshine and the warmth of this tropical island.
We started today
early by visiting Pearl Harbour. It is difficult at times to get tickets to the
Arizona Memorial and the best way is to arrive at the site at 7 am. So we did
just that and managed to get tickets for the first tour of the day – 7:30 am.
With little coffee
and no breakfast, we hurried to the theatre to view a very moving 25 minute
movie that told the story of the bombing of Pearl Harbour 74 years ago this
week. The story retold in the movie was remarkably even-handed, a description
of the preparation by the Japanese to launch the attack, the planning that had
occurred for months ahead, and the absence of foresight by the USA that such an
event would ever occur. None of this factual information can diminish the
tragedy of what happened on December 7, 1941 - the horror of repeated attacks
with little defense at the ready, the immense loss of life in indescribable
ways, the injuries and deaths of civilians, and the emotional aftermath of the
survivors.
As we left the movie
theatre and boarded the launch that would take us out to the memorial, there
was a silence in the crowd of people travelling together to honour that moment
in history. Standing in the beautiful white building atop the warship Arizona,
realizing that hundreds of men remained buried in the dark water beneath us,
reading the names on the walls of those who perished, all served to render us
silent and sad that such events have occurred so many times around this world
we all share. It is hard not to be a bit editorial at this point and wonder why
we have not learned a better way to address differences and conflict.
In an interesting
sidenote, there are still seven men alive who survived the Arizona attack. They
are all over 90 years of age. The oldest one, the eighth survivor, passed away
in recent weeks at age 100 and his ashes will be interred at the site of the
Arizona on December 7, 2015. His name was being added to the long list on the
wall of the memorial during our visit.
We left Pearl Harbour
and set coffee and breakfast as our next two priorities. We had already been up
for five hours and we were feeling caffeine-deprived and hungry as well. We
drove for a long way trying to figure out where all the restaurants and cafes
might be. What we finally realized is that, unlike home, where restaurants and
cafes can be seen along the roadways, in Hawaii such places are included in
business developments that are located off the main road. We passed by several
of these developments, not realizing that if we had simply turned in we would
have found a place to eat and have a much needed coffee.
We finally happened
upon a small town that had a McDonalds (no thanks) and a bakery/restaurant
called Zippy’s. It is very like the
Denny’s chain at home except the food is not as good. And as an alternative to
toast or pancakes, you can order rice with your breakfast. Willing to give
anything a try once, I ordered rice with my eggs. Not such a great combination,
I would say. Not to be repeated or recommended.
Having filled our
coffee tanks, the next stop along our route was a coffee plantation that had
many different flavours and blends of coffee served in many different styles.
We forced ourselves to sample a few of them but, in the end, we purchased some
tasty flavours of herbal tea.
Next stop was the
Dole Plantation. It was a great place to visit with a tour of pineapple fields
in a small train, a botanical garden, a coffee plant maze, demonstrations of
pineapple preparation, and, of course, a gift shop that offered all things
pineapple as well as all things Hawaiian. It was a great place to browse and
pick up a souvenir or two.
The pineapples had just been harvested in the days prior to our visit so some of the fields were devoid of plants. What we could see clearly across the road was the processing plant and vast bins of pineapples ready to be turned into juice. Hawaii produces a very high percentage of the world’s pineapple supply. Most of these Hawaiian pineapples are sold as fresh fruit or turned into juice. Of course, Dole has other processing plants in other geographical locations where the fruit is sliced, diced or crushed and canned.
The pineapples had just been harvested in the days prior to our visit so some of the fields were devoid of plants. What we could see clearly across the road was the processing plant and vast bins of pineapples ready to be turned into juice. Hawaii produces a very high percentage of the world’s pineapple supply. Most of these Hawaiian pineapples are sold as fresh fruit or turned into juice. Of course, Dole has other processing plants in other geographical locations where the fruit is sliced, diced or crushed and canned.
Before we left the
Dole Plantation, we did indulge in a delicious bowl of pineapple ice cream. It
was wonderful!
From Dole, we moved
onto the north shore of Ohau. This is the region where some of the largest
waves in the world roll in and some of the most spectacular beaches can be
found. The drive along the north shore did not disappoint. For much of the way,
the road was right next to the ocean. It would be very wet during storms, I
think, but at least there is no worry about ice on the roads. The scenery was
wonderful. The ocean was relatively calm and the sun made the rolling waves
glisten all along our route.
As we travelled east
and rounded the bend to head back south, the terrain changed dramatically from
gracefully undulating agricultural land (pineapple, coffee, pasture) as the
mountain slopes began to hug the coastline. Of course, we knew that Hawaii was
mountainous but I have to admit we were not prepared for the height of the
mountains. A few even exceed 10,000 feet, higher than many of the mountains in
western Canada. At least one, on Maui, occasionally has snow on its peak during
the winter months. But I am getting ahead of myself … The road in this area climbed high above the
water’s edge and then plunged back down to sea level as the slope of the
mountain demanded. At times, the road actually hung on the edge of the mountain
and extended out over the water. It was pretty spectacular in places.
We stopped at three
significant places along our coastal route. The first was in the town of
Haleiwa. We had read about Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck and decided it would be fun
to have lunch there. Based on our experience with food trucks in Waterloo, we
were not sure we would find it in the specified location or that it would be
open even if it was there. We were totally amazed to find not only Giovanni’s
but at least six other food trucks in the same location and a permanent array
of picnic tables and umbrellas set up to accommodate the diners. It was
mid-afternoon and the place was packed with line-ups at every truck. Shrimp was
a mainstay menu item at three of the trucks but you could also get crepes,
curry and ice cream at others. Items not available were burgers and fries. We ordered our shrimp from Giovanni’s and
settled at a table to devour our feast. These shrimp were more than delicious!
We enjoyed every morsel, surrounded by locals and tourists peeling shrimp and
licking fingers as well.
We were aware of a
beach culture/surfing culture as we travelled along the road. People walking
bare foot, towels slung around their necks and often surfboards or body boards
under their arms. The beaches were peppered with groups set up for the day –
umbrellas, coolers, blankets, sunscreen. There was an international surfing
competition underway at one of the beaches. Unfortunately, there was no
competition on that particular day because the waves were not large enough. We
watched the waves break on the shore and again were amazed at their size and
power, realizing that the best surfers in the world were waiting for even
larger surf. We sat in the grandstand and enjoyed watching the efforts of the
surfers who were riding these lesser waves (still huge by our standards). Some
were pretty successful and stayed upright for a long time while demonstrating
their moves. Even if it was not part of the competition, it was pretty
impressive.
The third place we
stopped was a macadamia nut plantation. There were no tours to see the
macadamia nut trees but there was a gift shop that offered everything
macadamia. The best part was the tasting bar.
Macadamia nuts flavoured with everything imaginable were on offer –
curried, salted, honey-coated, garlic, plain, pineapple, coffee – you get the
idea. We tasted many and purchased a few. Who could resist? We also took a
photo of the lovely palm tree in front of the shop all decorated for Christmas.
It was a bit surreal.
Finally it was time
to turn the car back in the direction of Honolulu. That meant crossing the
mountains that dominate the middle of the island. A beautiful freeway has been
constructed to help traffic travel from one side of the island to the other.
The freeway took us up and down mountain slopes and, at one point, through a
very substantial tunnel. Traffic flowed smoothly in each direction; courtesy is
a mainstay among Hawaiian drivers as merges and lane changes occur; so is
adherence to the speed limit. The speed limit on this major highway was 45 MPH.
It was a leisurely trip back to Honolulu!
Once back in the
city, the traffic slowed to a standstill. It was rush hour but no one was
rushing anywhere. It took us a long time to move toward our destination, a
beachside park, and when we arrived there was absolutely no parking. Dark had
fallen by that time so we abandoned the park idea and headed off to a highly
recommended Japanese Udon Noodle restaurant. We were very impressed with the
food and its preparation. And so were many other people. We stood outside the
restaurant for almost an hour waiting to be served. Once inside we were able to
watch the chefs at work while we slowly moved through the buffet line. Bags of
flour to make the noodles sat in piles on the floor. We saw noodles in every
stage of preparation – rolled on the table, moving through the cutting machine,
boiled in baskets in scalding hot water, measured out in serving-sized portions
and finally prepared to the diner’s taste.
The chefs were fast, moving people through as quickly as possible. This
was not a place for a leisurely meal but it was fascinating and the food
delicious. We now understand why it is so highly recommended and why so many
people are willing to wait in long lines to eat there.
It had been a long
day and we now turned to head back to our hotel, not far from the restaurant.
Gin and tonic time …. And some relaxation.
Wednesday, December 2, 2015
We awoke today to
rain showers and grey skies. Fortunately our plan for today would not be
deterred by weather conditions. We were planning to ride busses on various
routes through Honolulu and Waikiki to see some significant buildings and other
landmarks. Armed with an umbrella, we walked down the street to the closest
stop for the Waikiki Trolley.
We first travelled on
the Red Route which took us through the main business areas of Waikiki and of
Honolulu. We were able to sit on the upper deck of the bus under cover to get a
bird’s eye view. We could not figure out where one city ended and the next one
started, not unlike Kitchener-Waterloo. We did see beautiful parks, significant
churches, state legislative buildings, historic monuments, public art, the
convention centre, and evidence of many, many cultures and nationalities that
co-exist in these cities. The population of Hawaii is about 1,900,000 and
almost three quarters of that number live in Honolulu/Waikiki. It is a crowded
and congested city, especially when you add in the number of tourists who are
here at any given time as well.
After completing the
Red Route, we opted for a change of pace and hopped on the Blue Route bus. By
this time the rain had stopped and the sky was returning to the familiar blue.
This was a good time to take a trip out of town to the southeast coast of Ohau.
The driver on our bus
was outstanding. His enthusiasm, humour and knowledge set him apart from
others. As we travelled along city streets on our way to the countryside, he
shared information about the history of various neighbourhoods, the prices of
homes atop the mountains (some up to $24 million), the celebrities who have
established home here, and his pride in the accomplishments of a small island
in the middle of a vast ocean. It was an informative and refreshing commentary
and description of the city. Once we reached the city’s edge, the more formal
tour began. We learned about volcanoes and craters, lighthouses and tsunamis,
blowholes and whale migration, hiking trails and Barak Obama’s boyhood beach
adventures. But the most impressive place we visited was Hanauma Bay.
Hanauma Bay is a home
to a vast living coral reef which provides nourishment and protection to more
than 400 species of fish as well as green sea turtles. It is a Marine Life
Conservation Area with restricted access to the public and no fishing ever. The
bay is in a pristine setting, created by volcanic craters, in a broad
semi-circle, protected by high mountain cliffs from the open sea. Because of
its array of marine life, it is one of the finest areas for snorkeling in
Hawaii. From the clifftops, it was fun to watch hundreds of snorkelers floating
and moving around in the water. Alas, no snorkeling for us here as the bus
driver called “all aboard”.
We travelled back to
the city under glorious skies and disembarked at the Trolley headquarters.
There was another route, known as the Pink Route, that travelled through the
shopping district and came within a few blocks of our hotel. We hopped on board
for our third tour of the day. It was a crowded bus as shopping is a key
element in the lives of many tourists. The standard tour guide joke in Hawaii
is that there are four well used hiking trails on the Ohau, 3 of them on the
mountainsides and one of them in the mall.
We arrived back at
our hotel and enjoyed a gin and tonic to bring the afternoon to a close. We
skyped with Iain and then headed across the street for a very ordinary dinner
at The Red Lobster, chosen for its proximity, not its fish quality. In a place
where fresh fish is readily available, it was disappointing to be offered
Atlantic Salmon and Maine Lobster as mainstays of the menu. Jim did order tuna
but we refrained from asking where it had been caught.
Thursday, December 3, 2015
Happy Birthday, Iain.
This was a transition
day. We were moving from Waikiki on Ohau to Kihei on Maui. The flight was a 45
minute trip across the ocean. But as with all flights, there was time before
and time after that would eat up much of the day.
We left our hotel at 9 am to return our rental car. Ouch!!! When we got to the return lot, we realized that we had not refilled the gas tank. $91.00 later we were set to get on the shuttle to the airport.
We left our hotel at 9 am to return our rental car. Ouch!!! When we got to the return lot, we realized that we had not refilled the gas tank. $91.00 later we were set to get on the shuttle to the airport.
At the airport, Jim
had inadvertently left our sunscreen in his carry on bag. This identified him
as a person of interest and they did everything but strip search him. I sat on
a bench in the airport mall and waited very long time for him to be cleared.
Finally we were on our way to the First Class Lounge for Hawaiian Airlines.
Breakfast awaited … or not! Coffee and other beverages were available but no
food. We shared one banana that we had with us. And a stale muffin. Yum!
We were travelling
first class because that was the only way we could get all our luggage on board
without paying significantly more in fees. Yes … it was less expensive to fly
first class on this leg of the journey than to pay for our luggage. As it was a
very short flight, we were offered a beverage and a snack – a bag of mixed
nuts. Oh yes, and a dry cookie.
We landed on Maui and
quite easily picked up our rental car and headed across the island to our new
home for the next six days. We travelled between mountain ranges on a very wide
and flat plain that was totally covered in sugar cane. Remember, we had not yet
had much to eat so we were on the lookout for place to get some lunch. We
recalled that commercial developments were located off the highway and we
turned into the first one we saw. Bingo!! A mall with an outdoor food court as
well as a bank with an ATM. All very useful features. Stomachs happy and pocketbook pilled, we
continued on our way.
At 3 pm, we finally
arrived at our destination, Eve Villa, a lovely B&B where we are staying
for 6 nights.
It was worth the
wait!! Rick, our host, showed us around. We were given the two bedroom
apartment adjacent to the pool deck. Comfortable indoor facilities and lots of
outdoor living space. Rick also provided us with detailed information about
beaches, snorkeling, shopping, restaurants (including preferred menu items) and
driving tours of the island. This is going to be a great place to finish off
our 2015 adventure.
And then …. into the
pool, followed by the hot tub, and then back into the pool. Followed by a gin
and tonic poolside. Luxury and relaxation!
And then it was time
for dinner. We took Rick’s advice and went to a local place called the Pita
Palace. We were a bit taken aback by its upscale nature and its amazing menu.
Apparently they only serve pitas at lunchtime. In the evening, the menu is
mostly fresh fish caught locally by the owner of the restaurant. Their
guarantee is that the fish you eat today was swimming yesterday.
We ordered drinks to
start. I had a glass of white wine whereas Jim had one of their specialty
cocktails, a hibiscus ginger margarita. It is made from syrup created by
marinating hibiscus blossoms. The syrup is quite pink and thus so was the
margarita. The ginger gave it a bit of a kick along with the lime and vodka. It
was very smooth and went down easily. You could easily get into trouble with
hibiscus margaritas!
We ordered two
appetizers – ahi tuna and calamari and shared them both. Mmm good! In fact, the
most tender calamari either of us can ever remember having. We followed that
with a shared main course of fish salad. The fish was called mongchong, a
delicate, flaky whitefish that was perfect atop a crispy green salad. Again …
delicious! And because it was Iain’s birthday, we celebrated with a piece of
cake. Not just any cake though … this was baklava ice cream cake. A layer of
baklava on the bottom topped with a layer of vanilla ice cream, add another
layer of baklava and another layer of ice cream. The whole thing was topped with
a scattering of crumbled baklava. Truly decadent!!!! Happy birthday, Iain!!
Friday, December 4, 2015
This became a very
low key day. We had not necessarily planned it that way but as time passed it
became clear that we were ready for a ‘day off’. I spent much of the day
poolside, either in the water, or working on our photobook in the shade on the
deck. I got a lot accomplished and feel like I am caught up again.
Jim was reading and
doing research about Maui. We only have a few days here and want to use them
well.
We went into Kihei,
our village, for lunch. Da Kitchen was our destination, another of our host’s
suggestions. The food was fabulous but over abundant. I had fish and chips and
Jim had pulled pork. Delicious but either of us could finish the serving.
Having had lunch, it
is always a good idea to go to the supermarket when you are not hungry. Boy,
were we not hungry!! We meandered the aisles of Safeway looking for things to
put in our fridge and we came away almost empty-handed, except for more tonic
water and a bit of cheese and crackers. That would suffice for dinner tonight.
And then we came back
home, albeit along the beach road so we could get a feel for the town. But we
were happy to simply be ‘home’.
Saturday, December 5, 2015
Unlike yesterday, today
started early and had a very full agenda. Our first stop was the Swap Meet in Kahului
where the local Maui residents market their wares, fresh fruit, banana bread,
beautiful wooden carvings and everything in between. We meandered along the
walkways among the hundreds of tents and enjoyed the fact that we have
completed most of the shopping we had hoped to do on this trip. In fact, the
only thing we bought at this market was fruit, specifically atimoya, a small
apple-sized fruit with a very knobby skin. Inside was soft white flesh in
sections not unlike an orange, sweet to taste with a texture like lychee and a
large black seed in each section. This was a new taste sensation, one that we
enjoyed very much.
From the Swap Meet,
we headed to the North Shore of Maui. We were travelling on the well-known Road
to Hana today and that took us past some of the beaches and shores with the largest
surf in the world. Today was to be a day when the surf was particularly
dramatic. We picked up coffee and began our daylong drive.
The highway we were
on was some distance from the ocean so we turned on a few sideroads, searching
for the place called Jaws where the view of the surf was the best. After a
couple of misadventures, we did find the road to Jaws, an unmarked narrow dirt
road, really a one lane track for most of the way down to the beach. It was a
rugged drive, not at all what we were expecting, but we were encouraged by the
fact that we did meet occasional vehicles coming back up the road. Clearly, it
was negotiable all the way to the shore.
When we finally
reached the end of the road, we were astounded by the activity there. Clearly,
there was going to be a significant event very soon. Tents were being erected,
port-a-potties were in place and fencing was being set up to secure the
location. Most intimidating was the large sign that said DO NOT ENTER or words
to that effect. Believing, as he does, that the sign was not intended for him,
Jim entered the site and was given permission to go to the top of the cliff to
take some photos. I waited in the car and maneuvred around the various vehicles
that came and went, even in the short time we were there.
Jim’s report was that
the surf was not especially grand and his photos certainly supported that. And,
all he could extract from the workers on site, was that there was a private
event to be held in this location tomorrow (Sunday). So we took our leave and
made our way back to the highway, no easy feat given the nature of the track we
were on. It was narrow, steep and filled with huge potholes. Did I say narrow??
Our biggest challenge was meeting the transport truck on its way down to the
event site. We had to actually squeeze off the edge of the road into some high
grass that was growing alongside. It was a tight fit!
Happy to be back on
the highway, we now seriously turned our nose in the direction of Hana, a small
town about 40 miles to the northeast. The sun had come out and it was a
glorious day for a drive.
The road to Hana is
an extremely curvaceous route. It has 600 significant curves in the road as
well as 54 one-lane bridges. The road climbs high above the coastline,
providing dramatic views and amazing photo opportunities. It travels through
deep, dark rainforest where the sun is actually blocked from the land at times.
National parks are a common feature along this route as well as many, many
waterfalls and hiking trails. The road is narrow with only occasional
opportunities to safely pull off the road for photos. Note, I said safely …
that did not prevent people from pulling off anyway (including us). At times,
the road felt like an obstacle course. Needless to say, it was a slow road with
lots of time to drink in the beauty of the area. And it was beautiful!!
One thing that did
not exist along this road were commercial establishments or public facilities.
And, as the morning progressed, the need for a facility was increasing
dramatically, if you get my drift. We stopped at a fruit stand to inquire where
we might find the nearest toilets and we were told they were 3 miles back or 7
miles ahead. So, we kept going …
When we finally
arrived, this toilet break turned out to be the most expensive set of toilets
we have ever experienced. They were in a privately owned botanic garden. Rate
of entry $15.00 per person!!! But sometimes, life does not offer choices so in
we went. With comfort on our side, we
did take some time to enjoy the garden. Hawaii has such an abundance of
beautiful plants and flowers and the break from driving was well timed. We
enjoyed a bit of a snack, a bit of a wander and then headed out on the road
again.
We had been advised
to travel this road on a weekend when there would be no trucks and the local
commuter traffic would not be on the road. That was good advice as the traffic
was generally light in spite of the occasional parking issues. And our timing
was also good in that high tourist season begins in another week so we were
ahead of the crowd.
We thoroughly enjoyed
the long winding road to Hana. The 40 mile journey did take us about 4 hours,
including the short stop for ice cream close to the end. The ice-cream was
non-dairy, made from coconut milk. We had the choice of taking it with us in a
cardboard cup or eating it on site in a coconut shell. The coconut shell dish
was appealing so we sat in the shade of some trees and enjoyed our
chocolate-chili non-dairy ice cream. It was actually very good.
Once in Hana, we
stopped for lunch, coconut shrimp and fries. Mmm good!! I do not think we will ever
get tired of the fresh seafood available here. We next stopped at the nearby
national park right on the coast. Very tall trees dominated the park. Campers,
swimmers and picnickers were abundant. One unique feature was the black sand
beach, caused by the lava content of the soil here.
And now, it was
decision time … Our choices were to return to our B&B along the road we had
just traversed or to continue driving along the highway and completing the
circuit around this portion of Maui. What we knew about the road ahead was that
it would be narrower, in poor repair, void of all services and at times, a mud
track. Hmmm?? What to do??
Those of you who have
followed our travel adventures in the past will know that this was a no-brainer
for us. Of course, we continued forward, encouraged by the fact that there was
plenty of daylight left, that there had been no rainfall recently so the dirt
road would be passable, and that we had a cell phone that worked should we run
into any issues.
The first part of the
new road was much like the road we had just travelled -beautiful vistas,
one-lane bridges, plunging waterfalls (the best one of the day actually) and
the shade of tall, majestic trees.
Once we passed
through the last national park though, the road changed. It was narrower; it
was steep; it was well populated with blind hairpin turns; it was peppered with
potholes; and at times there was no protection to prevent us from going right
off the cliff. We were happy to be travelling on the inside of the road rather than
the other direction.
It was about this
time that we caught up with the car ahead. And soon, there was a car ahead of
him as well. Before long, we were in a convoy of five vehicles. We were the
final car in the line which was a great position to have (except for the dust
on the dry unsealed portion of the road). We followed close behind the car
ahead of us because we knew that even on the turns, there would be no one
coming our direction since four other vehicles had already forced them to stop
and wait. We had a great trip along the toughest part of this highway, being
able to enjoy the vistas, all the while not having to worry about what was just
around the next corner. Many thanks to the lead driver, whoever that might have
been.
After many miles, the
road turned away from the sea and began to traverse a high inland plain. We had
climbed from sea level up to 6800 feet and we left behind an amazing vista of
the south coast of Maui. The vegetation at this point changed dramatically. We
suddenly left lush coastline forest and instantly entered an almost moorlike
landscape. Short grass, multicoloured in the sunlight, grew along the slopes
for as far as the eye could see.
Hawaii is primarily
created from volcanic rock. The lava in this area was very close to the
surface. The grasslands made it very attractive as ranchland and we were soon
seeing fencelines and crossing cattle grids on the roadway. Occasionally we
even saw cattle.
We also came across a
row of eight windmills which, it turned out, formed one of the first wind
energy farms on the island. When we got out of the car we understood clearly
why this location was perfect for a windfarm. We were almost blown away. There
were informational signs in a small parking lot that provided information about
the windfarm but also information about the geography of the area. Far across
the water, we could see other islands and a map helped us to identify what they
were.
From here, also, the
road dramatically improved and the convoy had parted company. We were happy to
travel at our own pace and enjoy the views. At one point we crossed a lava
field, created by a volcano erupting over 500 years ago. There was not yet any
vegetation on that lava. Amazing to see how long it takes to recover from the
devastation of a volcanic eruption. The lava flowed all the way down to the
sea.
As the afternoon
waned, we completed the circuit of road we were on and arrived in a village. A
short detour in this village took us to the front gate of Oprah’s Maui ranch.
Alas, the gate was closed and her home was barely visible just beyond a
hilltop. But we had tried to pay her a visit. Her loss!!!
We pointed the car
toward ‘home’ and happily arrived in our town, Kihei, just as dark fell. A
short stop at a wonderful Italian restaurant topped off the day. We enjoyed the
crisp salads, the focaccia and the seafood linguini. Then it was back to our
comfortable unit and a quiet evening.
Sunday, December 6, 2015
Unlike yesterday,
today featured a slow start. A morning beside the pool seemed to be the order
of the day. I worked on sorting photos, and creating our photobook and simply
relaxing and enjoying this beautiful setting. Jim has attracted birds to the
yard with the blessing of our host and we are now enjoying the company of
several bird varieties – java sparrows, housefinches, northern cardinal (the
same as we have at home, surprisingly), zebra doves, spotted doves, peach-faced
lovebirds. Very few birds in Hawaii are actually native to Hawaii. Most have
arrived from some other location, either by ship or as pets and later released.
Java sparrows look to us like little puffins and are from Java and Bali. They
are cute to us but have actually become pests here as they like grain and rice
and can decimate crops. The peach-faced lovebirds arrived from Africa and have
flourished here. Like the java sparrows, they have become pests to fruit
farmers as they love the soft fruits on trees (mango, papaya). Spotted doves
are from China and India.
Something we learned
more about today was the event we heard about yesterday at Jaws. Indeed, it was
quite an event – the first ever international surfing competition at this
location. Called the Big Wave Tour Pe’Ahi Challenge, it attracted surf
competitors from all over the world. It was timed to occur in conjunction with
extremely high waves. We were just a day too early to see them yesterday. The
waves today measured up to 50 feet in height. It was all broadcast live online
and it was quite amazing to watch. We learned a lot about the world of surfing
culture and watched some pretty death-defying moves on mountains of water. A sport and a culture we are totally
unfamiliar with.
Following a luxurious
swim while Jim went to do the laundry, we had a bit of lunch beside the pool
and then headed out to explore another part of Maui. This time we travelled
along the west coast, a rugged coastline, with surf that attracts beginner and
moderate surfers. The waves looked very tame compared to what we had just
watched.
We stopped at a
look-out and enjoyed the vista; we travelled past several beaches, many of
which were shaded by large ironwood trees. We finally arrived in the town of
Lahaina, our destination. What a beach town it was – shops, cafes, restaurants,
tour operators lining the main street. Behind the shops stretched a vast sandy
beach, peppered with people, tourists and locals alike.
We were headed to the
Old Lahaina Luau. It is reported to be the best luau in Hawaii and is
consistently sold out. We had to go to our fourth choice of dates to get
tickets. We were greeted at the entrance with fresh flower leis and a choice of
beverage. Of course, we both chose the mai tais. A host escorted us to our
table and introduced us to the various activities on the grounds prior to
dinner and the show. We meandered the beautiful park-like setting, right along
the water and enjoyed the live music, the drumming lessons, the underground
cooking mound and the costumes worn by the staff. It was also entertaining to
see so many men and women wearing
flowery Hawaiian shirts and dresses (you can even get matching men and
women’s apparel) and wondering where they would ever wear them once the had
returned home. (Sometimes, I think we are far too sensible for our own good!)
We returned to our
seats just as the buffet dinner began. The evening was well organized and there
was never a crowd at the buffet. We filled our plates with a myriad of salads,
seafood and traditional Hawaiian foods and returned to our seats to enjoy. The
food was very, very good, especially the crab salad and the chicken. My only
comment on the meal would be that the plates were literally platter-sized and
we all took far too much food. So much waste!!
Once we had eaten,
the entertainment began. The troupe, through drumming, song and dance, told the
story of Hawaii. How the Polynesians arrived; how the culture evolved; how the
white man arrived and developed agriculture; how Christianity came to the
islands; how the monarchy served and then came to an end; how Hawaii became a
state in the USA. The dancing was engaging; the costumes amazing; the music so
– well, Hawaiian. Overall, it was a wonderful evening. We are so glad we were
able to get to tickets to Lahaina.
It was a dark drive
home but the roads are good and the drivers are courteous. And the speed limit
never exceeds 45MPH. A very pleasant drive on a summer’s evening.
Monday, December 7, 2015
We had a more
leisurely start to our day, including a manicure for me, before heading out to
explore more of Maui’s coastline. Once again, we headed to the west coast along
the same highway we travelled yesterday to get to Lahaina. The highway flanks the seashore and, in stormy
weather, you can imagine the waves breaking and easily splashing right onto the
pavement. The shore varies in structure along this route, sometimes pure sand
beaches, sometimes volcanic rock, sometimes cliffs on mountain edges. In many
places, there are mature trees that provide wonderful shade for the beach
areas. The most distinctive section of the road is canopied by the wide
branches of a large grove of ironwood trees. It is a welcome shelter from hot
sun.
Our first stop on
today’s adventure was at Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop. The building itself has
an old time western feel about it and the interior has a rustic feel as well.
Reviews we had read gave high marks to the food and they were absolutely
accurate. The menu was varied and interesting. Many savoury and sweet pies were
available and looked scrumptious. But Jim and I opted for some more unusual
items. We shared a fried brussel sprout salad with a citrus dressing
(delicious!) and Jim had a local Lahaina hotdog while I had a crispy Rueben
wrap, a small reuben in a wrap, deep fried. Both were also very tasty although
they will not be on our regular diet. Jim’s hotdog had an interesting pineapple
chutney mustard on it. And for me, the deep frying diminished the flavour of
the reuben itself. Nonetheless, we were happy to have stopped in and
experienced Leoda’s. It was certainly a popular place with steady line-ups at
the counter. We would choose it again if we are ever back in Maui.
Continuing along our
seaside route, we came to the town of Lahaina. It is a pure beach community
with one main street tightly lined with shops, cafes and tour operators. We
took time today to more fully explore the street and found some very appealing
shops along the way. We had to keep
reminding ourselves that our shopping is truly finished and our suitcases are
full!
We stopped at a
beach, nicely shaded by trees, which was beside a Buddhist temple. The claim
was made that the Buddha at this temple was the largest outdoor Buddha in the
Pacific. Jim and I would like to challenge that claim, having seen many outdoor
Buddha’s in southeast Asia. Perhaps it has to do with how you define the
Pacific. Nonetheless, it was an elegant Buddha placed looking out at the sea in
a lovely and peaceful manicured garden on the temple grounds.
Our next stop was a
little further along the highway. We had arrived at the area of Maui that is
adorned with palatial high-end resorts. We meandered along the service roads
for the resorts and reflected on how we too could choose to stay in one of
these places if we wanted a much shorter trip. But our preference has always
been to stay in less expensive accommodation and be able to extend our travel time.
Most of the resorts in this area had security gates and staff so we had little
opportunity to do more than gaze over the hedges. No access to the beach, to be
sure.
We carried on along
the highway past the resorts and found ourselves in a less developed part of
the island again. Rugged landscapes and heavy vegetation blocked our view of
the ocean. We travelled along for a few miles and then decided to turn back and
explore a narrow dirt road we had seen a few minutes earlier. Curious to the
end, we turned onto the dirt road, skirting the heavily grooves and deep
pot-holes until we came in view of the ocean again.
What a find!! This
was, in fact, a surfer’s paradise. A high cliff with a treacherous pathway to
the sea was clearly a popular and well-used surfing area. The waters far below
were peppered with bodies and boards waiting for the perfect wave to roll in.
As we watched, vehicle after vehicle arrived with more people and boards. The
surfing population here was dominated by young men driving four wheel drives
with space in the vehicle or on the roof for a surfboard or two. It was late in
the afternoon and the crow was just assembling. Some hopped out of their cars,
grabbed there boards and headed down the path to the water. Others observed the
action for a while, apparently making a judgment about the water and waves
before deciding to join in. We had a great time watching from our perch on top
of the cliff.
And then, we saw
it!!! Something else was sharing the vast sea with the surfers. It was large; it
was a long way offshore; it was making quite a splash. Oh, to have binoculars!!
But my trusty camera sufficed. Using the long lense, we were able to make out
the shape. It was a whale!!!!
Humpback whales
travel to Hawaii to winter in warmer waters. They tend to arrive in late
November and early December and remain until March. This is the region where
many of the females give birth. And the bay we were looking at on this day is
one of the more popular areas for the whales.
We watched as the
whale frolicked in the water. Primarily it was splashing its tail, lifting it
high above the surface of the water and slapping it down to create a large
splash of water. Our photos show the splash of water. Although we saw the whale
tail many times, we were never able to capture it in digital form (remember
when we used to say capture it on film). Nonetheless, we know we saw at least
one humpback whale and that was exciting for us!
All too soon, it was
time for us to turn our car toward home again. Dusk is soon followed by dark
this close to the equator. Although the road is in good condition and well
marked, there is so much less to see at night as it is DARK!! With mountains on
one side and sea on the other, there is no option for reflected light or
ambient light or even the twinkling of household lights in the distance. But
the stars are magnificent in the firmament in such darkness.
One final stop for
the day … at a beach where we can actually feel the temperature of the water. I
am not totally sure why, but we have not gone swimming in the ocean yet.
Perhaps it was the water temperature in Emily Bay in Norfolk Island that has
put us off. Brrrr! But, by touching the water here today, we learned that the
water is actually warm enough to be inviting. We will swim tomorrow!
For now, a relaxing
evening at home. Dinner from bits and pieces we have accumulated in the fridge.
Early to bed.
Tuesday, December 8, 2015
Our last full day in
Maui – bittersweet as we are falling in love with this place and yet, it is
time to go home to reconnect with family and friends. We flew off on October 20
and that feels like a long time ago. But we also will make good use of the time
we have left on Maui.
First thing, even
before breakfast, we were off to the beach! Armed with snorkeling gear, beach
towels and hi-grade sunscreen, we drove to a nearby beach known for its
proliferation of fish and sea turtles. Once we were suitably dressed and
lathered, it took no time at all to actually enter the water. Compared with
other waters we have been in (including the pool at our B&B), this was like
bathing.
The water was calm
and clear. The tide was coming in. It was a short swim to the area known for
snorkeling and both of us had cooperative equipment today. The shoreline was
rife with jagged lava rock so we had to be careful not to get too close. The
water was deep enough to attract many fish and other creatures of the sea. As
we ventured out a little further, coral replaced sand on the sea bottom and
many other species of fish were visible. Sea anemones by the dozen, yellow
fish, black fish, grey fish, striped fish, spotted fish, big fish, little fish
... and a few things we did not recognize. Some beautiful red spikey creatures
who hugged the sea bottom; a long slender black creature with a long snout
lingering in the shadow of rocks and coral caves; coral shapes we have not
encountered previously. All fascinating!
We floated and swam
and pottered about for over an hour in the early morning sun and warm water. It
was a glorious time. And then, the best part happened … we each had a green sea
turtle swim right past us. Large, prehistoric looking turtles … stunning!! I
tried to take a photo but was so enthralled with watching him I could not get
the camera to cooperate. So I have a photo of one fin and another photo of his
face. Too funny!!
We reluctantly left
the water and headed back home for breakfast and a shower. The clouds were
closing in as we drive along so our timing was actually pretty good. The air
temperature here falls quite substantially when the sun goes behind the clouds.
It remained that way for most of the day.
We spent the balance
of the day relaxing at the pool at our B&B. As always, I had some work to
do on this diary and on our photo book. And it was just nice to have a day at
home, so to speak. A swim, packing and an afternoon nap were all enjoyable
activities. Lunch on the pool deck and a plan to go out for a late dinner
tonight. Pure bliss.
The day passed gently
and about 7 pm we headed out the door to return to the Pita Paradise for dinner.
We heard some commotion at the head of the driveway and saw a large crowd of
people blocking our way out. By the sounds of their voices, it was a happy
crowd so we slowly walked up the long driveway to explore what the commotion
was about. And it was then that they broke into song. Joy to the World!!! It
was a large group of neighbours going door-to-door singing carols. What a
wonderful surprise and for the first time, I actually had a bit of that
‘Christmas feeling’. We chatted briefly with them and joined them in song for a
couple of carols. They invited us to walk along with them but we declined,
preferring instead to enjoy our last fresh seafood dinner in Maui.
Pita Paradise served
such a wonderful meal the first time we went, that we decided to repeat the
pleasure. We were greeted warmly at the door by the hostess who recognized us from
a few days earlier. We were seated on the outdoor patio; it was a beautifully
warm evening and eating outdoors was a delight. Our server was the same young
woman who had so capably met our needs previously and we were happy to see her
again. Our food was delicious – calamari steak as a starter, fresh marlin on a
garden salad as a main for me and fish kabobs with rice and veggies for Jim. Of
course, we finished the meal with a repeat of the dessert, baklava ice cream
cake. Superb!!
A great way to end a
wonderful holiday in Maui … but wait!!
Our flight does not leave until 6 pm tomorrow. So we actually have most of that
day as well. Hurrah!
Wednesday, December 9, 2015
We packed our bags,
said farewell to our host and headed off for one last adventure. Our plan was to leave the sea behind and go
inland. Right in the centre of Maui is the mountain that is responsible for
Maui being what it is today, a volcanic peak called Haleakala.
It was a glorious 2
hour drive to the top – through rainforest, pastureland, temperate forest,
moors, barren rocky volcanic plains, and vast areas of volcanic sand. Happily, the road was extremely well
constructed and relatively easy to drive. But it was unnerving at times with so
many hairpin turns and cliff driving. Up, up, up we went for 22 miles.
Along the road, we
were treated to some amazing views of the land and sea below us … and then far
below us. Towns became miniature models of themselves. The island coastline was
revealed before our eyes. We could see the coastal area we have explored, the
surfing beaches, the coral reefs, the sandy shores and the cliffs. We could
also look down (when we dared) and see the winding road that we had travelled.
If only, there was a helicopter to take a photo of the road. It had so many
twists and turns and a slow steady climb.
At the top of
Haleakala, we passed 10,000 feet in altitude. It was cold and windy up there!!
We were dressed for Hawaii, not for Canada. We laughed at ourselves and at our
lack of preparedness. Nonetheless, we got out of the car and took a short walk
to the edge of the crater. The view was breathtaking. It was so large; the
place where the lava broke through the rim was so visible; the colours of the
soil were so varied, ranging from dark black to red to yellow and even blue.
Just that view was worth every minute of the drive up!
The other view that
was offered from the top of Haleakala were many of the Hawaiian Islands far
across the sea. The Big Island, Moloka’i, and Lana’I were al visible to us. The
hazy conditions prevented us from also seeing Ohau.
The clouds in the sky
were very interesting because when we began our ascent of the mountain, there
were clouds above us with lots of blue sky. Along the way, we became level with
the clouds while maintaining the blue sky. At the top, we were well above all
the clouds and the sky was totally blue. From that point of view, the clouds
were actually blocking our view of things below. It is not often that we have
experienced that, except on an airplane.
While on Haleakala, we
managed to find some of the plants that grow only on that mountain and nowhere
else in the world. One particular plant, a green/white succulent, lives for
about 50 years and then produces one blossom to spread its seeds. Then it
dies.
We also saw some
birds that were unique to the area. In particular, we were able to get some
great photos of a pair of nene geese, endemic to the Hawaiian islands and the
official bird of Hawaii.
All too soon, it was
time to take our leave from the summit and drive back down the mountain, all 22
miles and 10, 000 feet of it. The drive was gentle and we were able to enjoy
the feeling that we were in a telescope and everything became larger and larger
the further we travelled. Tiny villages grew to their real size. The shoreline
diminished in scope but grew in detail. As we approached the bottom, we looked
back up at the mountain, in awe of its size and power … and that we had just
been at the top of the world.
A quick stop for
lunch at Kula Lodge was perfect. The vista from the lodge centres on Haleakala
and the menu featured seafood. Coconut shrimp and seafood ceviche became our
final meal on Maui. The food was good but the view was incredible.
We headed to the
airport, remembering to fill our rental car with fuel this time. We dropped it
off, collected our bags and climbed aboard the airport bus to begin our journey
home.
It is hard to believe
that we have been away for 7 weeks and that we have had so many varied
experiences during that time. Visiting with friends, exploring new places and
enjoying each day as an adventure have been the lifeblood of this trip. But it
is time to go home. We are excited to reconnect with family and friends there.
Hugs from the grandchildren are worth more than gold.
And it is time to
plan our next travel experience … we have a pretty good idea already where that
will take us.
Until then … aloha!
